To-Do List

– Oil leak. Re-doing the oil lines in AN fittings should cure this problem

– Fuel / Ignition map. Now that we’re dealing with a proper vacuum source, this should be a lot better. I think most of the map is actually pretty good, but when it gets to higher RPMs it sort of chokes out.

– Secure under hood electrical components. A lot of the relays and whatnot have had their mounting brackets removed. Duct tape isn’t going to cut it on the RallyX course.

– Tires. Duh? The ARE rims are 14″, and a 15″ might be able to fit with some persuasion.

– Exhaust. The SuperTrapp muffler is on the CRX now. And the exhaust pipe is barely attached to the underside of the car. This needs to be secured with hangers.

– Intercooler piping. The PVC is going to get brittle with heat, and it also has no bead to hold the connectors on. It might not be a bad idea to wrap the piping in something if we use something a little thin-walled.

– Air Filter. While the stock airbox hanging all funny is cute, a regular cone filter with some sort of airflow directed towards it would be a better bet.

– Remove Dash. There’s no rule stating that we need the dash any more, and all it’s going to do is rattle around. It would be nice, however, to retain the stock dash cluster for the speedo, tach, and odo.

– Secure fascia. The front bumper cover is attached with, basically, a couple drywall screws. That also will not last long on the course.

– Grille for intercooler. It would be nice to not lose the intercooler to a chunk of rock, but this is pretty low priority since we won’t really be following anyone that close.

– Pin hood. Once the pins are installed, the hood latch mechanism and all the associated release cables and levers can be removed.

– Pin trunk. Once the pins are installed, the trunk latch mechanism and all the associated release cables and levers can be removed. The trunk lid’s inner bracings can also be removed to eliminate weight.

– Injector clips. The bailing wire isn’t going to last that long.

– Fill firewall holes. There are several holes in the firewall where the heater core and other things used to be. These should be sealed in some quasi-permanent way and made to look halfway decent.

– Magnetic numbers. On the theme of having a cheap RallyX car that goes like stink instead of looking like it, some good magnetic panels would be a good idea. Best would be getting magnetic squares, covering the parts to make up the number, then spraying the rest of the sheet black to give the impression of white numbers on the black car. Don’t forget the class letters, too.

– Camera mount. Not very important, but I’d like to be able to mount a camera in the car to get some video.

Longer range:

– Manual transmission. Because automatics are for drag racers other wimps.

– Cage. Add some stiffness.

– Seats. A couple racing seats would be awesome, as would the 5-point harnesses that should be installed with them.

– Steering wheel. The whole missing airbag look is cool and all, but a nice wheel would be a good touch.

– Suspension. Rebuild the Konis? Get something new? Something that adds stiffness to the ride without lowering it.